Eternal Roma

Rome seems to have a deep soul.  They say for every bank in Milan there is a church in Rome.  The city skyline is lined with dramatic monuments and church domes.  You can feel the history

in the air.   Last time I was in Rome (2007) I threw a coin in the Trevi fountain to guarantee I would

return someday...let me tell you it works- I was back again!

Yum!

I checked into my ratty little room at a local youth hostel and headed out to the train station down the road to catch the bus to the Hard Rock Cafe for dinner. I know...how cliche'.  I just felt like a burger-what can I say.

After dinner I wandered around snapping pictures. The streets buzzed with frantic traffic.  Crossing the street was an act of almost suicidal intensity... I just followed the locals as they boldly walk right out into the road and hoped for the best. Down every alley there seemed to be another cobbled square, complete with bubbling Bernini fountains, in which the stream of locals and tourist families swirl around each other laughing loudly.  It's a city of contrasting streets; small dimly lit side streets suddenly end in 6 lane boulevards.  I fueled my adventures with frequent gelato stops.

The next morning I made my way slowly through those streets.  After breakfast I took the subway to the Colosseum.  Despite the hoards of tourists the drama of the Colosseum is hard to deny.  Coming up out of the subway the ancient arena blocks out

the sky.  It's not hard to imagine how overwhelming it would 

have been for a condemned gladiator from some faraway province in ancient Roman times. I put on my ear phones and listened to Rick Steve's tour on my iphone.  

  

   

   After the colosseum I had a reservation to see the Borghese Gallery, one of the most impressive

private collections of art anywhere.  The problem was I was running late.  I couldn't find the taxi stands anywhere...ugh!  I approached a guy in a bicycle taxi and asked him about getting to the Borghese.  It was too far for him but for 5 euro I jumped in the back of his cyclo and he pedaled me furiously through the ancient monuments and crowds to the other side where the real taxi's were.

I wish I could say I video taped our mad dash but I was to busy holding on as I bounced over the cobblestones.

**A word of advice: hit the restroom BEFORE you get in one of these things or you will regret it**

Another taxi ride and I was dumped at the entrance to the Borghese gardens about 5 minutes before my reserved entrance time.

Statue of David (internet source)

The Borghese Gallery is a huge private mansion with lovely gardens to stroll in.  Count Borghese was an avid art collector and entertainer.  It was one of the best gallery experiences I have had in Europe.  Crowds are limited to about 25 at a time so you really see the art in a very close-up and personal way.  Some of Bernini's best sculptures are here.  The techniques he used on the marble to show varying textures is amazing. Bernini is sculpting at the height of the Renaissance so his subjects are boldly human, muscled to perfection with expressions full of emotion. His statue of David was my favorite; it appears almost to move on the pedestal.   The only bad thing was you could not take pictures inside.

Cafes line Campo Fior

That night I went to the Campo Fiori (field of flowers) and had dinner at a little cafe lining the square.  Munching on pasta Bolognese and drinking a glass of the local red I watched families stream by on the evening Passeggiatta (nightly ritual stroll).








I finished my Roman night with a another visit to the Trevi Fountain for the fantastic gelato shop on that square.  Lovers and families swarmed over the
steps of the fountain throwing coins in the fountain.  I even saw a woman in a bridal gown on the rounds with her friends.  What a lovely time.